Most expensive suit looks bad if it is not well fitted. It’s not always important how much money you spend on clothing of suit but the right fitting can give you a look of James Bond. Also well stitched and fitted suit also remains comfortable to your body. Let’s check what are the criteria of perfect fitting suit, we need to consider when making new purchase. Check out 13 perfectionist’s tips to choose right fit suit.
1. Shoulder Seams
The fit through your shoulders is like the engine in your car. If it’s bad, forget the rest. A tailor can’t do much, if anything, about shoulder seam, so it has to fit. When you try a jacket on, you are really checking to see if it fits in the shoulders. The seam should rest naturally on your shoulder. The pads in jackets should follow the lines of your shoulders, not stick out from them. You want the seam on the top of your shoulder; not half way down your arm.
2. The Waist
Your waist is a terrible thing to waste. Not buying slim fit shirts and/or getting them tailored can leave you looking unfairly dumpy. Same goes for not having your jackets brought in at the sides. Jackets should dart in a bit without looking scooped out.
To avoid a boxy silhouette, your suit should dart in at the waist. Even on a pre-darted suit, you should have your jacket tailored to fit your body. The thinnest point should be around the jacket’s main button. Other garments should skim, not cling, to your sides.
If your buttons are pulling each other, and your vest is easily seen from that gap then you’re wearing tight shirt. Don’t worry, we have solution to check oversize and undersize of your shirt.
Pinch your shirt from any one side. If you find more than 2 inch then it is large and if small then 2 inch then it is small.
3. Exact Jacket Length
Some say a suit jacket or blazer should cover most of your pants zipper and butt. Some use the “curled fingers” test. With your arms at your side, curl your fingers up. Your jacket should be resting in your hand. Whatever you choose, know that the shorter a jacket tail is cut, the more casual it’ll look. If it is super chopped, you will look unbalanced.
4. Pant Length or “Break”
Where the pants fold when they meet your shoe is called the “break”. No “break” means that when standing, your pant legs will be stick straight, since they’ll barely brush the horizontal plane of your shoes. Medium break (a solid choice) means they’ll kink and dent in a little, but still show some sock when sitting. Full break is a goof amount of fabric at your ankle and won’t show your sock but too much break can look baggy.
5. Fitting of Shirt and Jacket Neck together
You want a collar that gets almost right up to your skin, but doesn’t constrict or choke. It should be comfortable. Yet, if you can fit more than a finger or two in-between your collar and your neck when fully buttoned, it’ll look sloppy.
6. Sleeve Length of Jackets and Shirts
Showing 1/4″ – 1/2″ of shirt cuff with your arms at your sides is ideal, but remember that your jacket sleeves (and the shirt inside) are going to move around a bit. For shirts, sleeve length should hit at the wrist bone, and not drift onto the heel of your hand.
7. Proper Tie Length and Width
This can often be covered up by a jacket or sweater, but the end of your tie should touch belt buckle or waistband of the trouser. The middle of the buckle is the bull’s eye. It’s a small detail that makes a big difference. However, celebrities like George Clooney and Brad Pitt have seen breaking this rule, but they are celebrity and then can do anything weird.
Tie’s lapel width should correspond to tie width.
8. Trouser Seat
Trouser also plays vital role of your look in suit. Proper fitting seat is more important to walk and sit anywhere. If your trouser is tight then you cannot easily insert your hand in pocket and too loose pant can cause wrinkles as well as ruins the beauty of well fitted jacket.
9. Trouser Waist
A bunched waistband held up by a belt isn’t ideal, but it’s better than a waist that’s so tight you feel squeezed. Plus, you can hide a pant waist that’s a little loose under a blazer, suit jacket, or sweater.
10. Trouser Leg
Suit pants will rarely fit off the rack. They’re cut long, intended to be tailored. Opt for a modern, straighter cut that will create a sleek silhouette, instead of a frumpy, baggy one.
11. Shirt Tail Length
Dress shirts have extra length to the tail so they won’t fall out as you move. But when worn untucked, it looks like you’re in a hospital gown. Shirts that are meant to be worn untucked (tees, polos, and some button ups) shouldn’t drift farther south than a few inches past your belt. Covering the entire fly of your pants is pushing it. If it’s too long, tuck it in, or, size down.
12. Armholes
If your armholes are too law, your whole suit will move you stick your arm out. Opt for the modern, less boxy high armhole cut.
13. Choose Fabric Wisely
Top Branded Fabric will give you real comfort. If your all measurements go right but you have selected wrong fabric then you are wasting your huge money. Choose big brand like Raymond, Vimal or Digjam. Wool and Cotton are most used fabric for suit. Getting enough size material is also mandatory. Make sure that you have purchased enough fabric. Minimum 3.5 Meter fabric is needed for suit jacket and extra size of fabric depends on pattern, your height and body.
Infographics: Visual Guide to How your Suit should fit
Via imgur.com
Video shows how to know a perfect fit Suit
Image Courtesy: Realmenrealstyle.com
Thanks: Dappered.com
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Bruno Lee
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